FAR COVE GETS A NEW ENGINE!

Well, this is the Story of Far Cove and her New Engine. There was something wrong with the old engine (A Universal M25 21hp diesel): it wouldn't get more than about 2200 rpm under load (supposed to be 3000) even with a REALLY small prop. I think it somehow wasn't getting fuel, but it was 20 years old and at 21hp really too small for a 36 ft boat.

So, look at options. I finally decided on a Universal M25XPB - basically the same engine, but upgraded to 26hp. Should be a drop-in replacement, right? (do I hear sounds of maniacal laughter?)

I bought one from Atomic Four Engine service, a local company that knows more about Universal engines than anyone I've found in 15 years. He also gave me a good price, AND he was Canadian, and local.

STEP ONE: Rebuild the stringers

First, I had to remove the old engine and check for rot in the stringers. Turns out there wasn't any, but I filled the old holes and basically cleaned up the engine bed

Here's the old M25, on temp stringers on the galley sole. She was a Good Old Girl.. (sniff)

Here's the engine bed, all rot fixed, holes filled, glassed and gel-coated.

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STEP TWO: Put in New Engine

The Plan was to pull out the old engine, drop the new engine on the stringers, align it and bolt it down. (sorry, we were too busy to take pics when the engine was dangling 15 ft off the ground...)
At least, that was The Plan...

Here's the New Engine - isn't it SHINY??

Here it is, sitting on the stringers, and guess what? IT DOESN'T FIT! Rear mounts must go down 1/4", front mounts 1/2", various Things Sticking Out need cutouts...(remember, this was supposed to be a drop-in replacement!)

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STEP THREE: Rebuild the Stringers (AGAIN!)

Yup, move the new engine out of the way, break out the grinder, mask, vacuum, gloves, resin, glass, gelcoat...

New Engine moved out of the way, stringers marked where they have to be modified.

Here the stringers are ground down, waiting glass and resin

Oh, and did I mention the entire exhaust system had to be replaced? The too-small 1" fibreglass thruhull was replaced with 1 1/2" bronze, and the 1 1/2" hose was replaced with 2", in a less torturous path.

The plywood backing plate was donated by Windsor Plywood of North Van (I didn't want to go all the way back home to pick up a scrap piece)

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STEP FOUR: Bolt on the Engine (AGAIN!)

OK, let's try this again, with 4-part Harmony and Feeling...

YAY - it fits! (Barely) But it's in, aligned, and bolted down. And I learned a few new swear-words as Robert tried to get the alignment Just Right. After all, if the air isn't blue after a job, it's just not done right.

Port side, showing exhaust manifold and alternator. It's so new, it still has the tags on it!

Starboard side. You can see the secondary fuel filter just below the air intake.

Rear view. Note the LasDrop dripless shaft seal. I've had it for over 10 years, and it's never leaked a drop.

Blue plug is where the exhaust comes out.

Of course, with a New Engine comes a New Prop - this one is a Campbell Sailor 14x10 three-blade (another Good Canadian Company...).

I also replaced the cutlass bearing.

And look at that: the old engine cover actually fits!

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STEP FIVE: IT LIVES!!!!!

With great trepidation, I triple-checked everything, checked the checklist again, checked everything...and said what the hell, let's fire it up! It started so quickly I was startled: I hadn't noticed that the old engine was taking more and more cranks before she fired. What a sweet sound: smooth, quiet...rumblerumblerumble... I was one Happy Camper!

After letting her warm up fully, it was time to take her out for a sea-trial...

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STEP SIX: CONCERNING PROPELLERS AND PITCH...

I had asked many "experts" what size prop to use for this engine in this boat, and I got answers ranging from 14x8 (although 9 might be OK...) to 15x11. I settled on 14x10. Silly me...

I clocked 6.6 knots at 2000 rpm, but a VERY brief shot to full-throttle showed me I was way over-propped: the engine didn't even get past 2500 (it's supposed to get to 3000 at full throttle under way). So the 14x10 Campbell Sailor prop was way too "steep".

Now, it turns out that Campbell Sailor have a "special" way to rate their props: What they call a "10-inch pitch" would be equivalent to a 12-inch pitch of another prop. They call this an advantage ("Look how much extra thrust our props have!"), but I call it incorrect calibration. Regardless, I needed 2 inches less pitch.

Now, I had it in my head that the old prop was a 13x6 or so, but it turned out to be exactly what I really needed: 14x8. So I sent it to Campbell Sailor anyway to get it cleaned up, chips repaired and balanced. Then, swap props and try again...

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UPDATE: All is well!

I put on the 14x8 prop, and it's still a LITTLE overpropped: with a clean hull, I can get about 2800 rpm WOT. Trouble is, I'm doing over 7.5 knots, and the stern has settled down to the point that it's covering the exhaust outlet.

However, she does 6 knots at 2000rpm, which is a very nice cruising speed and nice rpm for the engine. If I'm in a hurry, I can push it up to 2300 or so and get 6.5, and if I'm trying to get through a passage against the current, I can go up to 2500-2600 and get over 7 knots. As I said, at this speed the exhaust is almost under water, so I don't run at this speed for long.

So overall, the new engine allows me to navigate assuming 6knots, since I can make that speed easily even with some contrary wind or current.

I'm VERY happy with my new engine!